Mustard Algae keeps coming back - then Bromide mistake

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nathandantzler

Member
Jul 10, 2019
22
Nashville, TN
First off, I want to say this site has been a godsend. I've been using what I've learned here for the last 5 years, and my pool has been perfect with minimal effort and expenses. (I've only had to step foot in a pool store once to buy a fitting for my pump.)

Last summer, I developed a mustard algae problem. I followed the procedure listed on TFP. I completed the SLAM process, then raised FC to Mustard shock level for 24 hours. In my case, FC was raised to 35 ppm (CYA=60), and I scrubbed everything very thoroughly again (including behind the light niche). It took almost 2 weeks for the FC levels to drop back down to normal. During that time, I still brushed the pool 3 times a week and kept my pump & sand filter running non-stop.

I thought the mustard algae problem was behind me, but about 3 days later, it came back. So, I SLAM'd again and raised FC to Mustard levels again (35 ppm), but this time, I kept them there for 48 hours. Again, it took 2 weeks for FC to drop down to normal levels. The algae appeared to be gone by the time I winterized the pool last fall.

The big downside to the extra high FC levels is that my pool liner color has been bleached to a much lighter color below the waterline from the high FC levels.

In March, I opened my pool and the mustard algae has returned. I once again SLAM'd and raised FC to Mustard shock level (with lots of scrubbing), and again after a few weeks, the issue returned.

I had a pool guy come to replace my pump, and he mentioned a product that he said works great on killing mustard algae. I made the mistake of trusting him and using it. I knew better and should have looked at the ingredients and not trusted him. It was "ProTeam Mustard & Black Magic," and of course, it has Sodium Bromide as the main ingredient. I added 2 lbs to my 30,000-gallon pool.

The mustard algae appeared to be resolved for 48 hours, but now it's back again.

I'm VERY aware of my mistake in adding that to the pool, and I know that total water replacement is the only real solution. However, it is a very big undertaking to drain and refill my 30,000-gallon liner pool because of the liner.

I'm now wondering if I could drain it 18 inches or so, refill, and repeat multiple times to lower the Bromide levels. But even then, I'm not sure how to kill this darn mustard algae.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
nathandantzler said:
I'm now wondering if I could drain it 18 inches or so, refill, and repeat multiple times to lower the Bromide levels. But even then, I'm not sure how to kill this darn mustard algae.
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A partial drain in very inefficient. It will drain some of the water that was just added.

When the previous SLAM was performed - how did you know when to increase the the FC to Mustard Algae level? I am just wondering if you did your original SLAM long enough.
 
I would SLAM by maintaining FC of 24ppm (CYA = 60), brushing every surface 2x daily and would maintain 35ppm until it passed the overnight test (no change from sunset to sunrise in FC levels), then would raise it to Mustard Algae shock level, in my case 35ppm.

And yes, I'm aware that I'd be removing some of the new water each time, but I'm wondering if I repeat the partial drain and refill process many times if it would dilute the Bromine to a negligible level eventually. So I guess I'm wondering does ALL of the bromine need to be removed?
 
nathandantzler said:
I would SLAM by maintaining FC of 24ppm (CYA = 60), brushing every surface 2x daily and would maintain 35ppm until it passed the overnight test (no change from sunset to sunrise in FC levels), then would raise it to Mustard Algae shock level, in my case 35ppm.

And yes, I'm aware that I'd be removing some of the new water each time, but I'm wondering if I repeat the partial drain and refill process many times if it would dilute the Bromine to a negligible level eventually. So I guess I'm wondering does ALL of the bromine need to be removed?
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Even a small amount of bromide ppm can cause the cycle to repeat. The only sure way is to do a 100% drain and refill.
You may have already read this but always a good reference

Sodium Bromide - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Maybe @Donldson or @ajw22 can provide additional guidance
 
nathandantzler said:
And yes, I'm aware that I'd be removing some of the new water each time, but I'm wondering if I repeat the partial drain and refill process many times if it would dilute the Bromine to a negligible level eventually. So I guess I'm wondering does ALL of the bromine need to be removed?
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It will take many many draining cycles to reduce the bromine level in the pool.

The bromine will eventually degrade and get to negligible levels but it will take a lot of time and water.

@JoyfulNoise @Leebo may have ideas.
 
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In my opinion, all you need to do is SLAM and then maintain the FC sufficient to pass an OCLT.

Just keep the FC at about 15% of the CYA and you should be fine.

Periodically do an OCLT and as long as you pass, your FC is sufficient.
 
I posted about this issue a few weeks ago, but here's a quick recap.

I'm dealing with a mustard algae problem that I can't seem to solve. Last month, I SLAM'd the pool for 2 weeks until it passed the Overnight Chlorine test, then brought the chlorine up to Mustard Algae levels for 48 hours. I scrubbed the pool 3 times per day during SLAM and Mustard Algae levels, including behind the light niche. However, the algae came back immediately, and my liner was bleached below the waterline from the very high mustard algae chlorine levels.

A local pool guy I hired to fix a plumbing leak recommended "ProTeam Mustard & Black Magic". I made the mistake of trusting him and added it to the pool, then realized it contained sodium bromide. After realizing my mistake, I knew I had to drain the pool.

This week, I started draining the pool (with sandbags in the corners & stairs and a liner vacuum keeping the liner tightly in place), but the ground gets so saturated that water gets behind the liner, causing it to float in the deep end. I stopped draining when the pool was about 95% empty because I could see the concrete behind the liner starting to deform and break up from the pressure of the saturated ground.

When I started draining, the weather forecast was sunny every day, but that has now changed to severe thunderstorms and flash flooding warnings. So, last night I put a garden hose with a transfer pump behind the liner and was able to get all the water out from behind the liner as I continued to fill the pool back up. I got the liner back in place without any wrinkles, and I'm now trying to fill the pool as much as possible before we get a lot of rain here.

The problem is, I'm now right back where I started; I can already see the mustard algae coming back before the pool is even halfway full with fresh water.

To make matters more annoying, my wife and I are adopting our foster son at the end of the month and have a big pool party planned already. I'm concerned that even if another SLAM + Mustard level Chlorine works, I won't have enough time for the chlorine to drift back down to safe levels for swimming.

My plan was to drain the entire pool, scrub and clean every surface, then fill it with fresh water, salt, and balance everything. However, I'm not sure how I can do that when the ground is always so saturated where I live.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
Well it's filling up now, so I won't test and balance until it's filled back up. Here is a current picture of it filling back up.

But before draining I was at:
FC: 26ppm (4 sunny days drifting back down from a mustard algae level of 33ppm)
PH: 7.4
TA: 70
CYA: 55
TEMP: 75 F
SALT: 3550
CH: 67

Location: Nashville, TN
 

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nathandantzler said:
it's filling up now, so I won't test and balance until it's filled back up.
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Understood. Seems very unusual what you have experienced for quite a while. We know from years of experience and thousands of pools that algae simply cannot survive in heavily chlorinated water unless there are other mitigating circumstances such as inaccurate testing or hidden algae just to name a couple. For now, I would press-on with the fill. Inspect any exposed areas along the way. Once full, let the water mix for a few hours and re-balance like normal. I would not take the FC up to SLAM or MA levels just yet. A little strong is okay, but not those higher numbers. Then do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you pass the OCLT, there's really no need to go into those SLAM/MA levels.

This time of year, do you struggle with a lot of pollen? Looks like you're out in the country a bit with lots of trees.
 
Yes, the pool is surrounded by acres of Forrest.
When I scrub the walls (not floor), clouds of yellow / brown material bloom the the water, and if the chlorine is at non slam levels the water gets murky and dark cloudy, it doesn’t seem to be only pollen from what I understand.
The weird thing, is that that continues even when chlorine is at high SLAM levels, and even after passing OCLT tests.
 
nathandantzler said:
The weird thing, is that that continues even when chlorine is at high SLAM levels, and even after passing OCLT tests.
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This is very odd. :scratch: I will mention that above in your earlier post you mentioned the FC was at MA level for 48 hours. If/when owners must go that high, we recommend doing so for only 24 hours. Water under the bridge now.

Anyway, unless I missed it somewhere, how old is your pool filter? Have you opened it up since this issue started to see if the sand appears odd or needs a deep cleaning perhaps?
 
Yes, I know MA level should be for 24 hours, but after going through this process 3 times and the mustard algae still returning, I went twice as long this last time in case that helped.
My sand filter is 2 years old, I will be replacing the sand this week while filing the pool. I should also mentioned that I added DE to my filter the last time I was at MA levels in case that helped. The DE was all rinsed out on the last backwash before drain though.
 
Hi. I'd just like to confirm that we're on the same page regarding this algae. Could you describe it and what traits it has that indicates it is mustard algae aside of it appearing when the FC is high.

Please don't take this request as an insult to your efforts, but you've done a lot that should have taken care of mustard algae without any luck, so I feel it's worth making sure every other possibility can be ruled out before you continue.
 
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I don’t take it as an insult at all! I just wanna get this taken care of.

At chlorine levels under 10ppm, the water starts to look a little cloudy and dull, the walls and floor look dirty, when I brush any surface a brown/yellowish cloud appears, almost like sand, but it’s not sand.
When at SLAM levels, the yellow/brown clouds greatly diminish, but they never go away completely. After a few days maintaining SLAM levels the pool will pass the OCLT, then I move to MA levels, the water then gets crystal clear, but even still a SMALL brown/yellow cloud appears when brushing surfaces.

I’ve got through SLAM -> OCLT many times in the last year, and it always returns when the chlorine drifts below 25ppm.

My pool gets full sunshine without any shade (except from weather). And it’s there no matter what time of year it is.

I’m changing my sand out this week and even changing the light housing in case there’s some nook I’m not able to brush. I’ll leave the new light out so I can continue to brush inside of the niche, then put the brand new light housing in if and when I finally resolve the issue.

Here is a link to what it looks like when I brush (the video was taken with FC @ 23ppm)

iCloud Photos - Apple iCloud

View, organize, and share photos and videos with iCloud Photos on the web. Changes will sync across your devices with iCloud.
share.icloud.com share.icloud.com
 
nathandantzler said:
After a few days maintaining SLAM levels the pool will pass the OCLT, then I move to MA levels, the water then gets crystal clear, but even still a SMALL brown/yellow cloud appears when brushing surfaces.

I’ve got through SLAM -> OCLT many times in the last year, and it always returns when the chlorine drifts below 25ppm.
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Does it still pass the OCLT when the poofing returns ?
 

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